Foundational garments have always been of utmost importance through history, with bodies, stays and corsets being used and evidenced for years and years.

There is a lot of discourse on the ethics of these pieces, and everyone seems to have something to say on the matter, some labelling them as tools of female oppression, and others singing their praises of comfort and practicality.

Truthfully, the argument can go either way, but that’s not what I’m going to discuss here.

Underneath all the frills, lace, ruffles and jewels, there are always basic elements that have always been present.

Initially, there is always some sort of protective garment to sit right against the skin, usually made of linen for its durability through washing and constant wear. Often, this would also be a sleeping garment for those who may not be able to afford numerous different items.

There are a few different names for these, but most of the time they are referred to as a shift of chemise.

The next layer would be a structural garment – the bodies, stays or corset. They would support the bust and shape the torso, as well as bearing and distributing the weight of multiple petticoats to avoid stress on the hips and waist.

This could be followed by pockets, which were removable and women would keep for years, being decorated with beautiful embroidery and very personal.

These were underneath the petticoats. Depending on the season, any number of petticoats could be worn, made of silk, linen, cotton and more, some for the winter months being woollen and quilted for more insulation.

Obviously, more petticoats result in more volume, so this would also be taken into consideration when fashions were enlarging and shrinking. To achieve a more voluminous look, some petticoats would have chords sewn in, or be starched which would give the skirts more structure to rest on.

These were the basic layers that went into all outfits. A base, a structure, and then the final exterior look.

With corsetry having made a return in the fashion industry, it’s interesting to know a little more about the history of these garments. Many people have written about them, and many more will do so, but here are my two pennies on the popularisation and importance of these.

With this in mind, I am starting a new endeavour into creating foundational garments from different time periods.

Follow me on Instagram to keep seeing the process, as well as on YouTube!